By Linus Wamanya
Ethiopia never ceases to amaze and enchant guests. While there I was
enmeshed in its wealth of history. I was never braced for the contrasts
and surprises in the remote and wild places. These sandy brown hosts are
such a friendly people who are descendants from some of the world's
oldest civilizations.
You have perhaps heard of the fabled Queen of
Sheba, the Biblical home of the Ark of the Covenant, the birthplace of
coffee. As if that was not enough, “Lucy” the world's oldest known
almost-complete hominid skeleton, more than three million years old, was
discovered in this part of the Horn Of Africa had its roots there.
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| Covenant Church |
To any visitor, the Ethiopia menu of attractions is
lengthy and diverse. There is the Historic Route which includes the
ancient town of Axum. Then there is the amazing piece of art obelisks.
This is crowned by Christian festivals and relics, including the Ark of
the Covenant; Gondar. I am yet to find out how ancient Ethiopians built
these magnificient castles and palaces. There is Lalibela, with its
remarkable rock-hewn Churches. This is contrasted with, Negash, one of
the earliest holy Muslim centers dating to the Prophet Muhammad Era. To
lend it legitimacy, in Islam, is the Negash Amedin Mesgid, the walled
Muslim city of Harar and Lega Oda, near Dire Dawa where you can see
vibrant cave paintings considered to be thousands of years old.
“This place was declared free from Jihad
by prophet Mohamed,” Methenik, a guide told me. “Here a day has twelve
hours. A day begins with the sun coming out and ends with it going
down.”
I gasped for breath on seeing Lake Tana, the source
of the Blue Nile. It is the largest lake there boasting with 37
islands. The Monasteries like Kibran Gebriel and Kidanemhiret boasting
settlements dating far back to 14th century are also of interest
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| Axum Obliques: The broken old oblique |
Legend has it that Emperor Menelik I, the son of
the Queen of Sheba and king Solomon, brought the Ark of the Covenant
from Jerusalem to Axum, where he settled and established one of the
world’s longest known, uninterrupted monarchical dynasties.
This is only one example of Ethiopia’s magnificent
history, which encompasses legend and tradition, mystery and fact, from a
powerful and religious ancient civilization. The well -trodden path
through Ethiopia’s famous and fascinating historic places takes you
through a scenically magnificent world of fairy -tale names, such as
Lalibela, Gondar and Bahar Dar.
2. The rock-hewn churches of Lalibela (North Wollo
Zone) this is called the african petro with credible rock carved
churches made in the 13th century by king Lalibela
Lalibela, a 45 minutes flight with Ethiopian
airlines from Addis Ababa, is internationally-renowned for its rock-hewn
churches which are sometimes called the "Eighth Wonder of the World".
Physically prised from the rock in which they stand, these monolithic
churches were originally thought to have been built in the 12th century
during the reign of King Lalibela. It took me maximum of four hours to
tour all the eleven churches assembled in three groupings
For sure Lalibela stands out to be the a must visit destination while in Ethiopia.
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| Njera and wot; Ethiopia's traditional dish |
Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile and the
biggest lake in Ethiopia having 30 islands. There are monasteries
constructed on 27 of them in the 13th – 17th century AC containing
unique old paintings which depict the churches and biblical history.
The churches were used as treasure houses by the
emperors of that period. There are still some collections of this
antique treasure to be admired.
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| The rock-hewn churches of Lalibela - Jerusalem of Africa |
Gonder: the Camelot of Africa
Gondar was the capital of Ethiopia in the 17th century with its notable medieval castles and churches.
The city’s unique imperial compound contains a
number of castles built between 1632 – 1855 by different emperors who
reigned during that period. These amazing castles, unlike the others in
Africa, display richness in architecture which reveals the Axumite
architecture and the influence of the Portuguese, the Arabian and the
Indian.
Like Uganda, Ethiopia is home to a wealth of birds
and animals. There are also the high, rugged, Simien Mountains in the
north and the Bale Mountains in the southeast. They are endowed with
unique wildlife, rich flora and ideal for nature walks.
This part of Africa has eleven national parks and
four sanctuaries, where 277 species of wildlife and more than 850
species of birds fly. The Simien Mountains National Park is registered
by UNESCO as a world heritage site and is home to three of the endemic
mammals, Walia Ibex, Gelada Baboon and Abyssinian Wolf. Ras Dashen, the
fourth highest peak in Africa with an altitude of 4,620 meters, is also
located within the National Park.
Other National Parks include Bale Mountains and
Abijatta-Shalla in Oromia, Nech Sar, Mago and Omo National Parks in the
south and Yangudi Rasa in Afar, Gambella National park in Gambella, as
well as Awash in both Oromia and Afar Regions.
Comparably, Addis Ababa is a friendly and safe
capital city. There are first-class hotels and restaurants, museums and
palaces, and good shopping malls Mercato - Africa's largest open-air
market. Ethiopia is a mosaic of people with more than 80 languages,
different lifestyles, costumes and cultural dances.
Ethiopia has been called 'the land of a thousand
smiles'. By the way if you are destined to Ethiopia go ready to eat
Njera and wot and to drink strong coffee brews.
Ethiopian Fests
New Year’s Day September 11
To the religious calendar it is also the Feast of
St John the Baptist. Here it is called Enkutatash, meaning the ‘gift of
jewels’. When the famous Queen of sheba returned from her visit to King
Solomon in Jerusalem, her chiefs welcomed her back by replenishing her
treasury with jewels. The festival is marked by dancing and singing. The
night before, people light fires outside their houses, and run around
with flaming torches to welcome the New Year. Traditionally young girls
would pick a special kind of grass, called engicha or enqwutatash, and
would go round signing goodwill messages for the new-year. They present
the grass to whomever they meet and would be given a modest gift in
return.
MESKAL 27 September.
Celebrated in the country for over 1,600 years,
this important feast commemorates the discovery of the cross upon which
Jesus was crucified, by the Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine
the Great.
The day before tall branches are tied together and
yellow daisies, popularly called Meskal flowers, are placed at the top.
During the night these branch are set ablaze to symbolise Empress Helena
lighting incense and praying for help to find the Holy Sepulchre was
after nobody would show her. Following the direction of the smoke, she
dug and found three crosses, including the True cross. A part of the
True Cross is said to be in the mountain monastery of Gishen Mariame
located in the South Wollo administrative zone. The priests of Gishen
safeguard a gold box containing a fragment of this cross.
During this time of year flowers bloom on mountains
and plains and the meadows are yellow with the Meskal daisy. Dancing,
feasting, merrymaking, bonfires and in the past even gun salutes mark
the occasion.
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| The writer. |
GENNA (ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS) 7th January
The Ethiopian Christmas, also called Lidet, is
celebrated by all-night church services, with people moving from one
church to another. Traditionally, young men played a game that is
similar to hokey, called genna, on this day, giving the feast day the
name. This celebration is unique to Lalibela and attracts many visitors.
Timket, Feast of Epiphany, is the greatest festival
of the year. It is a three-day fest, beginning on the eve of Timket
with colourful processions. The following morning, the great day itself,
marks Christ’s baptism in the Feast of St Michael, the archangel, one
of Ethiopia’s most popular saints. There are religious rites performed
by the priests from the eve of the day.
The ordinary people prepare special beers, Tej and
tella, bake special bread and slaughter sheep that have been fattened
for the occasion. Children receive gifts and everyone turns out in new
clothes. Visitors can observe the ceremonies in most parts of the
country.
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